Spękane Skały in Miszkowice, Lower Silesia, consist of a dozen or so adjacent rock formations with plenty of easy bolted routes. Their southern exposure and high sun exposure make this a great area for cool autumn days.
This article answers the following questions:
- Which crags to visit right after a rock climbing course
- Where to go for sport climbing near Wrocław without crowds
- Which crags are close to Wałbrzych
- Which climbing area in Lower Silesia is good for cold days
- What are the alternatives to Sokoliki and Rudawy
Spękane Skały are located on a small hill in Miszkowice, near Lubawka and Kamienna Góra. It’s about a 1.5-hour drive from Wrocław. You can park near the ruins of a church or even closer to the rocks here. The approach to the nearest rocks takes about 3-5 minutes.
The area has around 140 bolted routes, with nearly 90% rated up to 6+. Most routes are in the 4 and 5 range, but there are also plenty of 3s and 6s, plus a few 2s. For more advanced climbers, there are about a dozen 7s (UIAA scale, equivalent to 6b-6c in the French scale) and one 8.
A dozen or so routes are in the shade under trees, while the rest are exposed to the sun. Some are shaded for part of the day, but the rocks generally have a southern exposure, so in summer, I recommend climbing only on cloudy days. Additionally, there’s a ban on using chalk at Spękane Skały, which makes climbing particularly challenging when it’s warm ;)
The rock is conglomerate, which is completely different from Jura or Sokoliki. The friction is good, and the climbing, for me, is quite interesting, although many routes have their crux at the very beginning. Personally, I prefer routes that maintain a consistent difficulty level from start to finish. You can find such routes there, but they are less common.
The highest rock is 25 meters tall, but most are around 15 meters.
Topo of Spękane Skały
Topo guides are available on information boards at the base of the rocks, and some routes are labeled directly on the rock.
I’ve been to Spękane Skały three times, so I haven’t tried many routes yet, but twice I encountered grades on the boards that seemed too low. Straszak on the sector Dach is graded as 6, but on 8a.nu it’s listed as 6b, and Nad Leśnictwo on the sector Kamienna is graded as 5+ on the board but 6a+ on 8a.nu. In both cases, my experience aligned with the 8a.nu grades.
If you’re looking for a climbing area with a large number of easy bolted routes, I highly recommend Spękane Skały. I’ll definitely return many times myself, as I still have plenty of 5s and 6s to climb. An additional advantage of this area is its low popularity. Unlike Sokoliki, where easy bolted routes are usually occupied on weekends, Spękane Skały doesn’t have this issue.
Thank you :)
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