Pełcznica - small climbing area near Wałbrzych

Pełcznica is a small but worth visiting climbing area in Świebodzice, an hour away from Wrocław. It should especially appeal to intermediate climbers who like sporty, quite strenuous routes.

The rock is located by the river also called Pełcznica, near the Książ Castle.

You can park on Solna Street, from where you can walk to the rock in just a few minutes. A very pleasant place, with relaxing sounds of the river in the background :)

The rock is about 18 meters high and, according to the topo on the Portal Górski offers 42 routes, including two trad routes. However, many routes have variants, so there are about two times less unique routes. People climbing at the level of about VI – VI.1 (6a – 6b) will find the most for themselves there. There are also several routes in the range of VI.2 – VI.3 (6c – 7a), while complete beginners are unlikely to have fun there.

I visited this area twice and I was climbing in the IV – VI range. I got the impression that the routes are rather difficult, i.e. the grading is a bit understated. Climbing is also quite strenuous, but interesting nonetheless. Perfect friction.

As far as undervaluations are concerned, the beginning of the Szuszek and Kroczek routes is particularly noteworthy here. These are two routes graded IV with a common start, visible in the photo below (the blue rope).

I really don’t know how anyone could rate it an IV. Maybe this someone is 1.90 m, reached the jug from the ground and didn’t think about shorter climbers. An additional difficulty is the location of the first bolt – high, behind the difficulties. Being 154 cm tall, two years ago I couldn’t get to the first bolt. I skipped this section by climbing the adjacent VI. Three days ago I managed to do it toprope and in my opinion it is VI+.

Three days ago I was also happy to see some new routes on the neighboring rock. I didn’t know what their grades were, but they looked IV – V, so I put myself in one of them to warm up. The difficulties did not surprise me, but it surprised me that I kept seeing more and more bolts in front of me, but not the anchor…

Maybe these routes are still unfinished? In this hole, which you can see between the two bolts, maybe something is supposed to be screwed in?

Or maybe the places where there are two bolts next to each other are intended as an intermediate belay? After climbing this rock, you can see another one a bit further.